AVANT GARDE / Lingerie

by Aude Penouty.

Who thinks that peculiar lingerie is only a sexy piece of lace which takes dust between each Valentine’s Day, would be amazed to see that design and designers are now taking lingerie in a fizzy avant-garde trend…

The adviser Marlies Dekkers.  We cannot talk about avant-garde in lingerie without mentioning the first who dared to launch a new type of lingerie; I named the Dutch designer Marlies Dekkers. Marlies Dekkers is a perfect example of successful Dutch retail companies which have proven they have the capability and persistency to operate abroad.  Indeed, through her lingerie line undressed by Marlies Dekkers, she went beyond inwear/outwear power of lingerie. Furthermore, in her will to balance influence between lust and seduction, she gives women confidence and willing to show their source of power. That’s why fashionable well-known figures as Lady gaga, Fergie from Black eyed peas already became addicts. Who wants extend the list?

Jean Paul Gaultier/ La Perla

Let’s now talk about the gorgeous co-branding between Jean Paul Gaultier and la Perla, season number 2. We all know that JPG is crazy about corset and retro style lingerie, as he’d again shown last October on his catwalk with Dita Van Teese’s perform. Once again, through this collaboration, they succeed to combine both contemporaneity and academic lingerie savoir faire. Indeed, precise shapes and astonish mix of lace and supple leather, give this unique avant-garde effect, as if we were back in the 20’s and everything in fashion would still had to be done! Isn’t so exciting???

Such a Mess!

 This is Atelier Bordelle, a play on words from French (mess/ bordello/ whorehouse); the British label was founded in 2007 by Alexandra Pope and designer Javier Suarez. Provocative, fiendish and sexy, are the words which come out when you take a look to their collection, making waves for their seductive and luxurious pieces. They first, had been discovered thank to the cage dress, designed in their signature style of elastic satin bandages that “cage” and frame the curves of the body, these pieces have been featured in the likes of Vogue, Elle and Pop magazine. Then, they came out with wiser but still tempting hosiery and bridal collection.

SS12 ,Bridal wear.

 

 

 

My Fav of the moment

Let me introduce my fav of the moment, the emergent American designer Becca McCharen, and her New York based label Chromat. As she says her work is more: “a structural experiment for the human body”. She mainly takes her inspiration from her architect background and her love for cartoons, and though focuses her work on structure and blocks of colors…Such a program that fashion hit girls such as Kim Kardashian or the singer Nicki Minaj are already ready to jump in. She also has leveraged social media to build her clothing line. Sites like Tumblr and Etsy have become invaluable to creative workers looking to expand their reach beyond their current location. Her way to deal with design structure is truly competent and  personally making me think of the avant garde designer Hussein Chalayan in comparision.  Judge by yourself…

Watch Becca McCharen Interview 

F/W12/13 in conclusion, when we are already thinking about next season, when bodies might be covered for secret insiders, lingerie universe can also be shaken by new designers and unexpected ideas…

All the images are used for research purpose only , all image credits goes to respective brands showcased in this post.