Trends, International lingerie fair ,PARIS

Trends , International Lingerie Fair

Report on Product trends and innovations 2011 – Research  Article written by Aude Penouty: Fashion Stylist.

As often, lingerie took its inspiration in the ready to wear big trends, following this time with two mains trends: Modern 50’s and Performance.

Madness of 50’s :Largely inspired by the success of “Mad Men” show and the glamorous and fleshy silhouette of its heroine, lingerie is coming out with modern retro trends. Moreover, using as well Dita Von Teese as an inspiration: “ Woman embraces her body and curve, she plays the seduction card and can go until doing striptease” according to Caroline Grelle, in charge of fashion’s trends for the SIL. The silhouette has a thin waistline and a large breast; there is covered lingerie; high-waisted panties and pointed cup’s bra. “ It’s the end of G-string, hot pants and half cup’s bra and the revival of flat belly high-waisted panty with sometimes messy cuts.” Florence Peyrichou, in charge of lingerie trends book for Nelly Rodi trends office.

AUBADE (FR),  ANDRES SARDA (SPAIN), ETAM (FR) 

–> more article – here … By Aude Penouty: Stylist Fashion

Fabric’s focus:  This trend marks the return of lace and silk satin.

Color sum up: – Orange uses as the new red +Red are the romantic’s panel- Black for the seduction – A new range of “sunny“(Orange/brown/dark nude/ terracotta)

Focus Brand: Empreinte awarded  “best band” of the year by the SIL. Still wandering on 50’s trends and also using new technology, the French brand “Empreinte”, which is specialized in big cups, worked in collaboration with Swiss’ embroiderer “Elsenhut” and German’s molding specialist “Mayser.” Together, they designed a skin-thigh guipure collection named Diva. From technical innovation and retro style marriage came out a collection of bras, a high-waisted panty, a g-string and a body.

Empreinte , Best brand of the year

Performance: Another strong product’s trend is “shapewear”. In recent years, shapewear has become increasingly popular as evidenced by a 14% annual sales growth rate for Maidenform (US leader brand). Advances in materials and production technologies have helped produce a more sensuous style of shapewear, without the need for boning and lacing which were essential components of traditional shapewear. This growth has also been driven by media coverage from popular TV series and music videos (Mad men and Lady Ga Ga) helping to make shapewear a must-have fashion item for the younger generation who would undoubtedly consider girdles as garments more suited to their grandparents’ generation.  Moreover, a lot of brands are using as inspiration a marketing phenomenon named “cougar”. Indeed, studies show that the best core target in term of budget is a woman between 45/54 years old. They often have a high purchasing power (121 euro’s budget by outfit) and often single, still want to seduce a lot. They are looking for performance in underwear’s, in order to keep in shape or sometimes avoid surgery. There is a lot of work around sheathed products and micro encapsulation of slim/anti wrinkles cream ex: Wacoal.

DKNY (US), BellyCloud(GERMANY) , Wacoal (JP),  GRACIJA-RIM (LV)

Homewear:

Thanks to the increase of the offer, nightwear, interior’s garment and yoga’s wear for instance, homewear is a fully rising sector: +22,5% in 2010. Following both RTW and lingerie’s trends, products are now outfits and not accessories anymore. Homewear is looking for fashion and comfort in a willing of cocooning effect, clearly doing the balance with shapewear’s movement. In addition of the traditional nightwear’s line, today the product range offers leggings, Maxi cardigan, robe to stay home or to do yoga.

Inspirited by untouched frozen nature (iced-blue, bleached green) and contrasted by bright colors (red, orange)

CYELL (NZD), HANRO (SZT), OCCIDENTE (IT)

Fair’s events Forum

• Compost-it by Nelly Rodi:

Following “Up-cycling” trend, the French trends office Nelly Rodi presented a trends place of life, where eco-friendly behavior was recommended: “We wanted to create one place where you can exchange and one Do it yourself studio, where every kind of work are possible.” Nelly Rodi

Re-compose, re-associate the types, the materials and the envy, reconstruct the being together, in a community spirit which exceeds the established rules: each comes to share the know-how, in a spirit of exchange. An initiatory route through 5 dedicated spaces: have a rough time, discover, create, look, take care of body and soul. Display of the 5 spaces: – Trends selection of products and brands by Nelly Rodi. – Fabric’s selection from Interfiliere exhibitors, by Nelly Rodi.- The fair coffee bar. – Massage and nails bar. – Pink bra bazaar and its “charity corner”.

Pink bra bazaar is the first charity uniting women in the world of lingerie to overcome breast cancer. (Boutiques, manufacturers, designers and media) Funds received will support research and prevention of breast cancer. In their pink house on the forum, two student from ESMOD lingerie class they customized bra’s collected during the bra’ swap, they also organized a lingerie fashion show with proceeds going to the charity.

• Triumph 125th anniversary

To celebrate its 125th anniversary the German lingerie’s brand Triumph International, launched a new line dislocate ” Triumph Essence – The Luxury Collection ” embodied by divine Helena Christensen. Soon in shops. 

Reviews on Personal favorites-

• Wundervoll:

Wundervoll is a family German brand, Berlin-based label that has been designing sexy underwear for fashion-conscious women since 2008. The underwear reflects a love of detail and gracefully accentuates the body without confining it. The label produces exclusively in Germany, with a focus on exceptionally high-quality materials and exquisite tailoring.

• Passionata:

The French brand owned by Chantelle group, refreshed its style and collection. Having the celebrate model Bar Refaeli as muse for the next collections, Passionata is becoming the best young target brand.

Various other brands  Lou Paris, Pierre Mantoux,  Ritratti,  Simone Pérèle.

The Return of “Cone” Bra,

The 21st century bra takes a lot of inspiration from emblematic vintage shapes, but it’s modernized with new colour codes (the new nudes) and materials (jerseys and knits).

New Marketing & Retail Ideas

• Chantelle 3D presentation

The French high-level brand Chantelle is the first lingerie to have used 3D technology in an advertising campaign. On their stand, a dark room was dedicated to the movie. Once fit out with the glasses and headphone, you could enjoy the 3D new collection presentation. Created by supervision of 3D expert Thierry Pouffary and director of photography Gordon Spooner.

• Bride wear

Bride wear in lingerie seems to become the new niche market in Luxury sector…

Indeed, brands like “Agent provocateur” now, organize bachelor’s parties in private lounge inside their shop, planning champagne, games and outfit’s fitting of course! The Italian brand “La Perla” just launched a special bride’s collection. And the luxury designer’s brand specialist website “net-a-porter.com”, displayed a bride tab into the lingerie’s offer. Watch this Kylie minogue advert  AGENT PROVOCATEUR (UK)

THE SIL COLOR RANGE FOR SUMMER 2012

Summer 2012 color range:

Tender : The clearest and palest of pastels, ideal for lofty and silky fabrics and for a new vintage mood that is more sexy than candid.

Earthy : The earth hues: ochre’s, oranges and copper tones which support the passion for nature and organic environments to use with mat or shiny effects, with top-of-the-range laces, and for beachwear. Note a surge of ‘hand-dyed’ effects, especially indigo.

Florals : Floral tones, essential nuances for charming prints available now for ranges of limited volume.

Complete Research Article  By Aude Penouty: Stylist Fashion

( Images used here are from respective websites and other sources and used only for research purpose to support the research )